Training the Directed Jumping Exercise
by Betty KrampFirst of all it is very important to take each step of obedience training slowly. Complicated exercises such as the directed retrieve over jumps should be broken apart into components with each part taught and rewarded separately. In this exercise there are 3 primary parts: the go out, the turn and sit, and the jumping. Many dogs fail to qualify (NQ) on “go outs”. Why is this? It is difficult to convince your dog that leaving the comfort zone of your side is a good idea. There is nothing attractive about the opposite side of the ring as far as the dog is concerned. When the dog successfully completes a correct go-out, how do you reward the dog, as the dog is then 40 feet away? If the three components of the directed-jump exercise are put together too quickly, many handlers will unknowingly discourage their dogs by allowing a negative reinforcement such as defeated facial expression or sagging posture to creep into their training sessions. Body language is very important when working with dogs. For example, the slump of your shoulder, the size of your eye when you look at them, your tone of voice all communicate more to your dog than any words you might use.
Introduce the go-out in small, easy steps. Set up a situation where the dog cannot fail, thus allowing positive reinforcement of desired behavior from the very beginning. Extinguish incorrect responses by ignoring or never allowing the dog to be incorrect. Slowly increase the difficulty of each step along the way. If you encounter problems, simply return to the previous small step and re-pattern the correct behavior before moving to the next increment of the exercise. Teach the dog that “go out” means: “trot directly away from me until I give you another command”. To motivate a response in training, I use a food as a lure. This "start slow, small and easy" philosophy requires only a tiny crumb of favorite food as a lure, not a full seven course meal. The goal is to convince the dog that it is highly likely that a reward is waiting at the other end of the ring. No need to display a plate of lasagna. In fact, an obvious display of food is counterproductive, because no visible lures are allowed at trials or matches. I would also not suggest that a laser spot be used to mark the go-out position for much the same reasons as not using a visible food lure. Even more important, lasers are capable of doing damage to your dog's eyes.
| Set up a ring which has at least a portion of the ring barriers on opposite ends. A barrier may be a few ring gate sections or just a couple of pieces of PVC pipe stuck in the ground. Pick up a package of wire ties at your local hardware store. Wire ties are stiff plastic straps which loop into a collar piece at one end and are used to fasten a group of wires together. Loop a wire tie around your barrier gate right in the middle of the ring and trim the free end of the tie to a reasonable length. Now, take a tiny piece of soft treat about the size of your fingertip and stick it on the plastic wire tie. Please note that while training this exercise it is important that the lure is baited consistently. Hold the dog's collar and talk about the treat while setting the lure. Hey, “this is go out”, point to the treat, do not allow the dog to eat the treat. When the dog’s attention is riveted on the lure, give both a hand and voice command “go out” and release the collar. | ![]() Name the Target Lure "Go Out" |
![]() Use the command "Go Out" and send the dog to the lure. |
Any dog can successfully complete this go-out. When the dog eats the treat, the spot called “go-out” has rewarded the dog. Now you reward the correct behavior, get really excited and praise. Maybe offer more treats or play. Repeat this behavior 3 or 4 times in each training session for some time, until the dog eagerly waits on a sit stay, looking in the direction which the hand is indicating, for the go-out commands. Consistently use both a hand as well as a voice command when training the go-out. Gradually lengthen the distance between the lure and the point at which you leave the dog on a sit stay while baiting the lure. Always, while baiting the lure, point to the lure and repeat, “this is go out”. Pattern the go-out behavior over a long period of time. The lure is very small. The dog cannot see the lure from the other end of the ring. After being rewarded many, many times by the "go-out spot" the dog eventually accepts this as a good place to be because good things happen there. Occasionally, bait the lure before you bring the dog to your practice ring. You may also bait both ends and send the dog from either side of the ring. Increasingly bait the lure without letting your dog see you do it. Thus reinforcing that the reward comes from the “go-out spot” and not from you, the handler. When you have patterned a super-eager go-out to the food lure, it is time to start intermittent rewards. Gradually, over a period of many sessions, you may occasionally (only occasionally) not bait the lure. Be careful that you do not develop a pattern such as the first go out is baited any subsequent go-outs are not. Intermittent rewards will help to reinforce a stronger response than will consistent rewards or patterned rewards. The dog must consistently work because the reward might be there. When the go-out spot is not baited, make certain that you reward your dog's efforts by something different and fun such as praise, or play retrieves, or a walk. |
At no time along the way do you correct the dog, raise your voice, or express any frustration. There is no reason to become frustrated. If you hit a roadblock, go back to the previous step and allow your dog to have a success. Reward his honest effort and start at an easier step at the next training session. Do not skip ahead too quickly, but don’t feel that you must do any phase of this exercise a set number of times before moving on. Each dog I have trained had different learning curves. Delay a step too long and you will bore a quick learner. Increase difficulty too quickly and you will discourage a slower dog.
![]() Train jumps individually, slowly expanding distance from the ring center. |
To train the directed jump and/or turn and sit use the same "start slow, easy and small; reward constantly" philosophy. Resist putting the three sections together until the behavior is very reliable within each of the separate components. Gradually put the parts together on a small scale and work the whole exercise in a slowly expanding ring size until your dog is consistent.
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| When you think you are ready to start proofing, set your ring larger than a normal ring. Working your dog on a 50-60 foot go-out at home makes 40 feet in a competitive situation seem easier. Set your jumps 50-60 feet apart as well. This encourages the dog to look for the jump based on your signal. If proofing starts to indicate a weakness in your training, back down from the component part of the exercise which is shaky and do some more easy re-enforcements. If you have a dog who consistently fails the go-out by not going far enough or refusing to leave your side, my advice is to retrain this exercise in the manner I have outlined. | ![]() Help your dog to understand the jump command by standing beside the jump while indicating the bar. |
Remember, "Train, don’t Complain!"







